29 March 2017

Royal State Visit of the Day: March 29

The Belgians went a-state visitin' to Denmark, offering us a speedy primer in Royal Dressing 101 and 102.

The Danish royal family welcomed the King and Queen of the Belgians for a state visit yesterday.
This is straight from the textbook for Royal Dressing 101: The Basic Coat + Hat Combo. (Also from the textbook for Royal Dressing 000: The Men Wore Suits.) Sometimes there really is nothing better than a simple coat or suit with strong lines, paired with an out-of-the-way hat. Princess Marie's repeated ensemble looks downright fussy next to the sleek run of mint-turquoise-aqua-blue-whateva on the other three ladies. Queen Mathilde's Natan outfit feels like 100 others she has in her closet, but when it works so well for her, can I argue? Nah.

Belgian Monarchy
Here's a shocker: my top marks for the day's class go to Crown Princess Mary. (Try and contain your surprise.) First, she used a new-to-her designer, the Dutch Danish designer Claes Iversen who we know mostly around here for his work for Queen Máxima; second, this is just a great coat. Throwing off the curve for everyone else as usual.

The evening's state banquet provided a glimpse into the textbook for Royal Dressing 102: Sash Coordination Strategies.
Obviously we need another Sash Check first: Philippe and Mathilde wore Denmark's highest order, the Order of the Elephant. Belgium's highest, the Order of Leopold, was worn in turn by Margrethe and Frederik. A lower Belgian order went to Mary and Joachim, the Order of the Crown, and another notch down went to Marie, the Order of Leopold II. (Now's a good time to drop a couple links to posts I wrote ages ago on the "rules" of wearing orders, useful for those with questions: the basics on the whats and whys, and what happens when countries get together.)

DR1 screencap
Queen Margrethe set off her purple sash by keeping the day's aqua theme going, and accented things with her Pearl Poire Tiara and the assembled parure that goes with it. I thought she looked spectacular - one of her best evening dresses of late.

Queen Mathilde took advantage of the fact that Denmark's Order of the Elephant blue sash goes with just about anything and sported a light orange Armani Privé gown. A complementary color strategy in the school of sash coordination is an advanced tactic. It's also, in this case, a real hard sell.

TV2 screencaps
She's almost got me sold on the full version of the diamond Nine Provinces Tiara, which I never would have believed possible in the days before she became queen consort, so the impossible is clearly within her reach.


Golden gowns will go with about anything too, a strategy taken by Mary and Marie (who wore her Diamond Floral Tiara). Crown Princess Mary took it a step further by opting to get a little sash coordination in there by matching her jewels to her burgundy sash - and it was the best surprise of the night.

DR1
This is the first time Mary has used the Danish Ruby Parure for a state visit, so she really made it count. Wearing the Ruby Parure Tiara, the studs from the Ruby Parure Earrings, and the full Ruby Parure Necklace added a necessary bit of color to her golden Jesper Høvring gown (which we just saw at this year's New Year Court). March 28th being Queen Ingrid's birthday was an added bonus. Valedictorian of the class, this one.

TV2
One more tiara for the road! Princess Elisabeth of Denmark was a lovely surprise to see at the state banquet, wearing her usual pick, Princess Thyra's Sapphire Tiara.

And finally, do yourself a favor and enjoy just a bit of the sparkle in action.

27 March 2017

Breaking Jewel News of the Day: Queen Máxima Wears the Stuart Diamond Necklace

We're back with another special post, because: WOW, some MAJOR gown and jewel happenings went down in the Netherlands tonight. Those who follow Dutch royal jewels have been waiting to see if Queen Máxima would break out the Stuart Tiara, that enormous diamond tiara not seen since the days of Queen Juliana. Would she do it for the state visit from Argentina, her home country? Well, no - but she did inch one step closer to the big reveal. Honestly, she's just teasing us now.

King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima hosted a state banquet on day one of the state banquet from the President and First Lady of Argentina.
Okay, firstly, yes, THIS DRESS. She brought back the stunning Jan Taminiau dress she wore to her brother's wedding in 2014 with a little alteration at the top of the bodice. I knew it was destined for gala greatness, and here it is. (Quick order check: the Dutch Order of the Crown for the First Lady, the Order of the Netherlands Lion for the President, the grand collar of Argentina's Order of the Liberator General San Martin for the King worn with the sash of the Dutch Military William Order, and her usual Order of the Netherlands Lion for the Queen.)

But really: THIS NECKLACE. It's the massive Stuart Diamond Necklace (or House Diamond Necklace, if you like), and man oh man is it stunning. This necklace uses old diamonds from the house collection and is most associated with Queen Juliana, who wore it as part of a parure with the Stuart Tiara. Princess Beatrix was never big on elaborate necklaces, so this one also hasn't been seen since the 1970s.

Queen Juliana and the necklace
After more than forty years in the vault, Queen Máxima brought it back to life with the Dutch Diamond Bandeau on top, also including a piece of the large diamond bow brooch that also goes with this set at her waist. She managed to find the jewel combination that was both extra special (for a country close to her heart) and not too extra on the tiara front, given her guest would not be wearing one. That's some A+ jewel work. This doesn't just leap to the top of her Best of 2017 list...I think it easily leaps into the Top 10 Máxima Looks of All Time. Wow. (Now, quit teasing, Máx. We're ready for the Stuart.)

Bonus sparkle: Princess Beatrix can be glimpsed in the video below wearing the Antique Pearl Tiara.

A post shared by Blauw Bloed (@blauwbloedtv) on

Monday Tidbits for March 27: Exhibitions Galore

It's going to be a sparkly week. But first:

--Princess Beatrix opened "Chapeaux!", an exhibition of over 100 of her hats at Het Loo Palace this week. [AD]

--Also relevant to our interests: "House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion at Chatsworth" has opened at Chatsworth House, home of the Dukes of Devonshire. Included are robes worn by past duchesses to coronations. [New York Times]

--I do my best to bring you sightings of the Princess Royal in uniform, here opening the Princess Royal Jetty last week. [ITV]
LPhot Paul Hall/Royal Navy/MOD Crown Copyright

--Over at the Jewel Vault, Camilla gives this Queen Mother brooch new life.

--And finally, there's a lot to digest in this Queen Rania outfit. Just a lot to digest.


Coming up this week: You know we'll be all over the Argentina/Netherlands state visit and the Belgium/Denmark state visit.

Tidbits is your spot for topics we haven't covered on the blog. Please mind the comment policy, and enjoy!

24 March 2017

Tiara Watch (and Baby Announcement!) of the Day: March 24

In 2015, Crown Princess Victoria announced her second pregnancy the day of an official dinner at the palace. When she showed up for the dinner, there seemed to be a reason for the timing of the announcement: she simply couldn't hide it any longer.

So yesterday was a bit of repeat show.
Kungahuset.se
The royal court had some happy news to share on Thursday: Prince Carl Philip and Princess Sofia are expecting their second child in September, a baby brother or sister for Prince Alexander. (Yay!) Then yesterday evening, the court held one of their regular white tie official dinners at the palace, and...

...yup, that announcement came just in time. This is one of Sofia's best gala gowns so far, which is why I am so glad she saved everyone from the speculation. She also made her second appearance in the Cut Steel Bandeau. I'm gonna say diamonds would have been better and rubies would have been better yet. The dress is screaming for the Edward VII Ruby Tiara, at least as a necklace.

Two airy tiaras with nature motifs rounded out the group: Crown Princess Victoria in Princess Lilian's Laurel Wreath Tiara, which she inherited from Lilian in 2013, and Queen Silvia in the looped forget-me-not garland of the Connaught Tiara.

Kungahuset.se
Victoria gave her Nobel 2012 appearance a do-over, once again sporting that Elie Saab number which has been so lovingly dubbed the Kermit Dress by many of you (we're going with "lovingly"), and the Bernadotte Emerald Necklace.
At the Nobel Prize Ceremony in 2012
She's swapped the Four Button Tiara for Lilian's Laurel Wreath Tiara this time, and WOW does that make me love this look so much more. My fondness for her using the Bernadotte emeralds again and my affection for her making Lilian's Laurel Wreath a regular part of her tiara rotation are strong, but boy, my aversion to the Four Button is eternal.

23 March 2017

Tiara Thursday: The Westminster Halo Tiara

The Westminster Halo Tiara, in its original format
The Westminster Halo Tiara, once part of the impressive Westminster tiara collection, is an instantly memorable tiara created to showcase three memorable diamonds. Resting in the center of the original tiara was a large round brilliant thought to be the Hastings Diamond, a gift given from Nizam Ali Kahn to King George III in 1785. The stone bears the name of Warren Hastings, the intermediary asked by the Nizam to convey the gift to the King; he was under trial for corruption at the time, and he managed to get the gem wrapped up in political scandal. The sides of the original tiara held the Arcot Diamonds, two large pear-shaped stones given to Queen Charlotte by the Nawab of Arcot.

The Arcot Diamonds as pendants on a brooch
These famous diamonds were sold to the crown jeweler (Rundell, Bridge, and Rundell) after the deaths of King George III and Queen Charlotte. Rundell loaned the Hastings Diamond back to George IV for use in his coronation crown. All three stones were later acquired by the Marquess of Westminster, and they were used in different settings by the Westminster family for several decades.

Loelia, Duchess of Westminster
Beaton
In 1930, the 2nd Duke of Westminster asked the Lacloche jewelry firm to mount the three diamonds in a new tiara. The resulting design used around 1,400 smaller diamonds to create a halo-style diadem that extends out from the sides of the head in a style reminiscent of a Chinese headdress.

Anne (known as Nancy), Duchess of Westminster
The tiara was worn by Loelia, the Duke's third wife, for portraits shortly after it was made; it was also worn by Anne, his fourth wife, to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. The 2nd Duke died a month after the coronation and his estate drew then-record death duties. In 1959, while still dealing with the inheritance tax, the family sold the grand tiara at Sotheby's.

Shots of the tiara in motion at the 1953 coronation show how flat it is from the side. See if you can spot the Duchess of Westminster at the front of a sea of sparkly peeresses in these videos: here at 3:17, and here at 8:42 and 9:44.
British Pathe screencaps
Jeweler Harry Winston was the next to own the Westminster Halo Tiara. Under Winston's ownership, the three large diamonds were removed, recut, and resold as individual solitaire rings. After the recut, the alleged Hastings Diamond was 26.77 carats, and the two Arcots were 30.99 and 18.85 carats. The larger Arcot stone was last seen as the pendant on a necklace created by Van Cleef & Arpels.

The gaps created in the tiara by the removal of the largest stones were filled by a redesign of the top section and with more small diamonds, echoing the rest of the tiara's design. They were also memorably replaced at one point in time with three turquoise stones, like robin’s eggs in a diamond nest. While with Harry Winston, the tiara was loaned for wear by several people (see the links for photos): socialite Rose Movius Palmer wore it in the turquoise version, entertainer Carol Channing used it for an event, and rocker Alice Cooper wore it as a necklace for a portrait. The tiara was sold again at Sotheby's in 1988. It was last associated with Isi Fischzang jewelers.

The Westminster Halo Tiara, in its last format
Incorporating large stones into tiaras can pose quite the design challenge for a jeweler. I'd call the Westminster Halo Tiara a success on that front; the design impressively holds up with or without the centerpiece diamonds, though I do prefer the centerpiece of the original design. I think it's a gorgeous and unforgettable piece, but it's also not the kind of piece you can picture being worn today to a state banquet or other tiara event. (In fact, the only regular tiara-wearer I can picture wearing this with aplomb today would be the supremely theatrical Queen Margrethe II of Denmark.) Really, it's unsurprising that it's spent most of its years in the hands of jewelers.

Does any version of this tiara strike your fancy?